My Name is Maximus Decimus Meridius...

19/09/14

Today we had our first taste of an Italian breakfast. I wasn't expecting much as anytime I go to a hotel I skip the “continental” breakfast as it's usually just rubbish bread and fruit but I was pleasantly surprised. It was both tasty and huge which as an added bonus, meant we didn't have to buy lunch!

The first stop of the day was the Terme Di Caracalla, which I had no idea even existed until Rory dragged me there. Originally these ruins were Emperor Caracalla's vast baths. Completed in 216AD and taking up over 10 hectares (as a farm trader I can tell you that's over 20 acres) they included baths, gymnasiums, libraries, shops and gardens. They remained in use until 537AD and between 6,000 and 8,000 people visited daily while hundreds of slaves ran around 9.5km of tunnels, taking care of the plumbing systems!

We went from one relatively unknown place to another very well know place – the Circus Maximus. The Circo Massimo as us legit travels know it, isn't much to look at now but in its day it was Rome's largest stadium, seating 250,000 people, which at a quarter of the city’s population is quite a big deal. From the 4^th century BC this is where chariot races where held! Once we'd done the whole “walk on ancient ground thing” we had a quick look at the River Tiber and the Isola Tiberna which is one of the smallest inhabited islands.

But wait – the day doesn't end there, in fact, we were only getting started! Our next stop was the Colosseum or as Lonely Planet likes to call it, “a monument to raw, merciless power”. Vespian ordered its construction and after eight years of constant construction (slaves literally worked night and day) it was inaugurated in 80AD. Naturally his son thought that there was no better way to celebrate than by hosting 100 days of intense games that saw 5,000 animals slaughtered! But to be fair, he was outdone by some fella called Trajan whose 117 day killing spree involved 9,000 gladiators and 10,000 animals! Yikes!

When the Roman empire fell the Colosseum didn't do too well. It became overgrown, was used as a quarry and even became a hang out for the homeless. It also didn’t help that all the valuable natural materials were stolen or re-purposed for other parts of the city.

Now it's Italy's most popular tourist attraction and it's not hard to see why. Before I went I didn't have any particular expectations, I just thought it was a big circle that Russell Crowe ran around in the movie Gladiator but when you see the elaborate tunnels that were used to house gladiators, wild animals and the intricate systems of pullies that they would have needed to raise and lower trap doors and even the canvas roof, you really appreciate what went in to its construction!

From here we walked across to the Roman Forum and actually entered this time. Despite being on a guided tour we didn't really think we received enough information about the ruins and without Rory and the travel book I would have had no idea what I was looking at!

These poorly labelled ruins were originally developed in the 7^th century BC and expanded over the subsequent centuries to become the centre of the Roman Republic. Despite falling in to ruin, the area has been systematically excavated and while some areas are more intact than others, it's not hard to imagine what it would have been like in all its glory. As with most of Rome, if the ancient temples became churches they are remarkable well preserved and if they didn't, well, they're literally in ruins. A few things really stood out; a reconstruction of the Roman Senate sits almost opposite the place where Julius Caesar was cremated and the Arco Di Tito, an arch built by Emperor Domitian and dedicated to his elder brother Titus is remarkably well preserved and is even said to be the inspiration for the Arc de Triomphe. There is even an area dedicated to the Vestal Virgins, who despite having heard of, I knew nothing about. Basically, every year six physically perfect young girls were chosen by lottery to serve Vesta, the goddess of hearth and household. Once selected they faced 30 years of chaste servitude where they ensured that the temple's sacred fire never went out. If they met a handsome Roman and threw caution and their chastity to the wind they faced being buried alive and their gentleman caller would be stoned to death. No pressure ladies.

We finished the tour at the Palatino, or Palatine Hill. According to legend this is where the two brothers, Romulus and Remus, were saved by a wolf and where Romulus founded Rome. The ruins and the view were both highly impressive. In the main, what you are seeing are the ruins of Emperor Domitian's palaces and the gardens of more recent wealthy families. It was so vast I can hardly begin to imagine the Roman version of MTV Cribs.

But wait, I'm still not done! After the tour we had a good long walk around the city and stopped for some dinner. Rory had meatballs and I went for, surprise surprise, steak! And yes, it did come with a large slice of lemon instead of potatoes but hey, when in Rome! I then took us on a mystery tour which further highlighted my belief that I have an impeccable sense of direction as, without meaning to, I took us to the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps!

The Trevi Fountain is a “baroque extravaganza” that depicts Neptune's chariot being led by Tritons sea horses, one docile and one wild, thus representing the moods of the sea. But what I saw was... some scaffolding. Apparently Fendi is paying for the restoration of the fountain. Thanks Fendi. Really appreciate the work you're doing but couldn't it have waited until after my once in a lifetime trip?

We had a bit more luck at the Piazza Di Spagna and the Spanish Steps. Built in 1725, these steps were a hang out for rich English visitors on their Grand Tour. Rory and I aren't quite as rich and this tour wasn't very grand but we took a few pictures, had a nice rest and then splashed out on a 15euro taxi back to the B&B.